- The collection is inspired by the myth of Icarus and pays homage to Schiaparelli’s rich history.
- Silks, satins, and sculptural corsets dominate the collection, but lack the brand’s iconic irreverence.
- The collection’s over-reliance on perfection risks making it feel like an artifact rather than a statement.
Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025 collection, “Icarus,” masterfully blends traditional craftsmanship with archival inspiration.
Roseberry’s homage to fashion history seems to have overshadowed the playful provocation that was once a hallmark of the brand. While the designs were polished and elegant, they came off as more museum-worthy artifacts than runway statements.
The Icarus Paradox: Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Collection Soars and Falls
Daniel Roseberry’s “Icarus” collection for Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2025 pays a grand tribute to haute couture’s past. Drawing inspiration from antique ribbons and couturiers like Yves Saint Laurent and Madame Grès, Roseberry celebrates craftsmanship with immaculate tailoring, luxurious silks, and sculptural designs. However, the collection’s reverence for the past feels overly self-aware, teetering on the edge of museum exhibition rather than fashion innovation.
The myth of Icarus, with its theme of ambition and downfall, is a fitting allegory for the collection. The soaring heights of craftsmanship and historical references are undeniable, but the collection falters in its lack of contemporary audacity. While the pieces are beautiful, there is little in the way of the unexpected or rebellious energy that Schiaparelli once embodied.
In the absence of the signature surrealism that made the brand iconic, the designs feel too refined and polished. The sculptural corsets and embroidered fabrics were flawless, yet they didn’t seem to push fashion’s boundaries. Instead, they presented an image of couture trapped in its own history, frozen in time.
While Roseberry’s “Icarus” collection undoubtedly showcases technical brilliance, it misses an essential element of haute couture: the ability to surprise, challenge, and provoke. Schiaparelli’s reputation for irreverence remains largely untapped in this collection, leaving the audience longing for something more daring.
While “Icarus” is undeniably impressive in terms of craftsmanship, it doesn’t capture the boldness and creative audacity that once made Schiaparelli a revolutionary force in fashion.
“Haute Couture aspires to reach great heights; it promises an escape from our complicated reality. It also reminds us that perfection comes at a price.” – Daniel Roseberry
